Southampton
Posted on July 15, 2013
Having arrived in Southampton after an exceptionally smooth Atlantic crossing we are now beginning the trip that was the original objective, a visit to the Baltic and Scandinavian countries. I used the internet sparingly during the crossing but if you have been monitoring you may already have deduced that my daily posts during the crossing were pre-recorded, so to speak. From this point onward they will tend to reflect daily experiences.
Setting Sail for the Baltic – July 13
Our arrival in Southampton was greeted by a lovely sunny day which eventually gave us temperatures around 30°C (85°F). Our taxi ride between the two Southampton terminals was brief and the driver had barely opened the luggage compartment when a shore worker arrived to pickup our large bags which he placed on a dolly. Moments later he pushed them through a hole in the wall and on to a conveyor belt which we hoped led to our ship.
The four of us started into the Mayflower Cruise Terminal to begin the next embarkation process. Our loyalty status with Princess Cruises comes with a Priority Boarding benefit which we can bestow on companion travellers, so together we followed the Princess agent cutting through lines of waiting, presumably, non-priority travellers. Zip, zip, zip–now to the waiting area as the Crown was not yet ready to take on passengers.
Herding Sheep
Now when I am travelling I often feel like a sheep, following others in line, like going to grade two recess but never more so than this day. It began with the now normal security inspection. Three of us made it through but Gary rang the bell and required a MUCH closer inspection. The agents were really quite civil as we were allowed to wait for our potentially miscreant member. At some inspection points there seems to be such a strong anti-loitering regulation that it can be criminal to even look back at someone being detained. Eventually Gary proved to be no security threat and we carried on.
Here we were, following the line through the building, up an escalator, along a corridor to the top of another escalator which stopped as we arrived. After a momentary pause we four and the group in front of us were directed to an elevator to bypass the stopped escalator. By the time we reached the bottom of the elevator people we had left at the elevator were pouring from the bottom of the now working escalator. Another turn brought us all to a large waiting area where we were directed to seats to await our turn to board.
The wait was not long and we were among the second group of Priority Boarders to move out, in line, like sheep. Up we went, yes the same previously intermittent escalator. Now along a hallway, down a previously used escalator, back passed the exact location where security people were, only inches away, inspecting other folks. THe line snaked around the building, out an exit onto the pier itself where we were separated from the longshoremen and supplies being loaded onto the ship by only a chain link fence, On we went. Rough pavement and ancient rails perhaps used by previous generations of dock equipment, could not slow the migration. We took a jog to the right, another to the left, onward then upward we went to another escalator. As we reached the top of this one the line went to the left then folded back on itself in the same corridor. Walkers, not sure where the line should go, clogged the escalator arrival area causing one embarkation guide to begin screaming at another at the bottom of the escalator to “STOP THE ESCALATOR.” Repeated calls eventually produced a result.
The currently stopped line led to the spot where ship’s photographers, intending to photograph arriving passengers, had abandon hope at least temporarily and were standing, backs to the wall. After a left turn we started up the actual boarding gangway, turned 180 degrees and began descending but the ship was in sight. Onward determined travellers. Only moments later ship security staff snapped our identification photos and checked us onto the ship. We made it! Finding our cabins was a breeze, for some, the mystery wandering will continue.
All Aboard
It was not long before Jeff (Jennifer) and Dave arrived aboard and not too long thereafter when luggage, previously poked through the hole in the wall, also found its way to our rooms. Now it was time to unpack once again but this time there was laundry to sort. Next, passenger muster drill, delayed 30 minutes apparently as a result of traffic delaying passenger arrivals. By 5 PM drill was complete and we pushed off. We all enjoyed the lovely warm afternoon to watch our sail away for a few mites before going below to prepare for our first dinner aboard the Crown Princess with all six of the Baltic travellers together. We enjoyed or first dinner together and laughed a lot. Looks like a good 14 days to come.
Remember, internet at sea is not all that hospitable to file transfers but a few photos will make their way to this link. Southampton
Oslo
Posted on July 16, 2013
When I awoke this morning at 7 AM the Crown Princess was sailing NNE at about 16 its with the coast of Norway visible on both port and starboard. We expect to arrive in Oslo at about 10 AM and it’s a beautiful day in the neighbourhood. Sunshine through light cloud with morning temperatures in the mid-teens celsius. The weather in Norway’s capital city remained pleasant throughout the day with varying cloud cover.
Gary, Sue, Gail and I walked off the ship at 10 AM as soon as the gangways were available. Objective: a hat pin for me and fridge magnet for Gail. One of the array of port shops solved that problem and netted additional souvenirs as well. Any purchase exceeding a modest minimum value comes with the documentation necessary to recover the VAT charged and there was a kiosk at which claims could be filed. As the queue was lengthy we continued toward Oslo and a 90 minute walk around.
Our first impression of Monday morning Oslo was, in a word, sleepy. Traffic was very light, few stores were open and equally few food services available. Our route took us across a pedestrian mall, past the City Hall, and into a public square between the Parliament and National Theatre. The square featured gardens, water features and statuary. Statuary and floral displays were visible in the pedestrian mall and around buildings. As we returned to the ship we passed The Nobel Peace Center. After a stop at the port shops to recover the VAT we rebounded the Crown Princess.
Lunch completed, we met again with Gary and Sue for an afternoon excursion. We got a quick look at three museums focused on the seafaring history of Norwegians. The Viking Museum was first. On display were the remains of three viking boats two of which were in remarkably good condition. It is hard to imagine anyone setting out to sea in such craft but they did.
The Fram Museum held the boat and artifacts used in Norwegian attempts to reach both north and south poles. Nansen used the Fram in an attempt to reach the North pole by using the flow of polar ice to transport the icebound ship. When it became obvious that such a plan was going to be unsuccessful he tried to make the remainder of the trek on skis but again was prevented. Amundsen employed Fram again at Antarctica and while he did reach the South pole he died before he could return to the continent’s coast. While the Fram dwarfed the earlier Viking ships ocean travel must have been arduous. The final museum of the day was the Kon-Tiki Museum housing rafts used by Thor Heyerdahl in his attempts to trace ancient migration routes from Asia to the Pacific Islands.
As our motor coach threaded its way through the streets of Oslo we got glimpses of the Royal Palace, the Ballet and Opera house and some residential areas. As the coach returned to the port it passed through the Akerhus Fortress & Castle. Dinner and the evening show, a comedian, finished the day.
Check here for a few photos of Oslo
Gothenburg
Posted on July 18, 2013
Gothenburg, our port for today was cancelled at 7 AM according to the Captain’s announcement. Safety was cited and, more specifically, the 40 kt (Force 8 to 9) wind across the beam. I can only imagine the potential difficulty managing a ship of this size and sail area in strong winds.
During the night, Gail was bothered by the ship’s motion and had to resort to Gravol. I did notice the ship bouncing about but am not so sensitive. Gail was therefore less than impressed with the 6:30 AM wakeup call. Having made and early start in preparation for a port day we got the cancellation news. While I hope this is the only cancellation it was the port most people would have been most willing to give up.
The Cruise Director and staff were busy all day setting up entertainment to fill what was expected to be a port day. Crew members who were expecting lighter duty or shore time found themselves at action stations. This just goes under the category “Stuff Happens.”
The ship bounced around for part of the morning but by afternoon the sea was calmer and the wind speed returned to Force 2 or 3 and the sun began to pierce the clouds. The remainder of the day was quite pleasant. We could see land from both sides of the ship for most of the day and I managed to get some photos of a very long bridge under which we passed. When I remember the name I will caption the pictures and post a few. As the evening progressed the land receded as we made our way toward the eastern shore of the Baltic and our next port, Tallinn.
By Wednesday morning we reached 17°E longitude. This was expected to be a sea day between Gothenburg and Tallinn. Sailing across the Baltic has made me aware that it is not deep. On our Atlantic crossing and Pacific crossing some years ago water depths were typically thousands of feet but here I have yet to see a reported depth in excess of 500 feet. Some earlier research I read about the Baltic referred to it as a brackish sea with the majority of circulation through the narrow channels to the North Sea.
This evening’s entertainment consisted of music, comedy and more music featuring ABBA. The six of us often make our own entertainment but we got an assist from a waiter over the last couple of days. At breakfast a Romanian waiter came to our table and maintained that I had a similar appearance to a former, once exiled Romanian king. With this affirmation I was beginning to get some obedience from my traveling companions until the Romanian maitre’d at dinner failed to recognize my regal status. We mentioned the waiter and he was summoned to the dining room. The two together did agree there was some likeness but my royal authority was seriously compromised. Easy com, easy go!
On to Tallinn.
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Tallinn
Posted on July 24, 2013
In Tallinn we had about six hours of port time. The Lower Old Town appeared to be within easy walking distance of the cruise terminal but we elected to begin with the Hop-on Hop-off bus. After about 30 minutes on the bus trying to get something out of the narration provided, we executed the Hop-off part. The narration was difficult to hear as a result of earphones that did not want to work and low audio when they did work. However, we were able to follow our progress on city maps. Our Hop-off stop was at Toompea Castle which was in the Upper Old Town. We had become convinced that starting up high and descending on foot would be the best plan.
Tallinn appeared to be one of the more ideal ports for just walking around and it was. I had read that the residents were friendly and largely bilingual in English and what is referred to as Estonian which is a derivative of a much older language called Eesti Keele. I can verify that English was spoken very well and walking from the Upper to Lower Old Towns was definitely the right choice. Most of us found some souvenirs while in the Upper Old Town. Prices were reasonable and the Euro was welcome.
The Upper Old Town featured the Toompea Castle, the Alexandr Nevsky Cathedral, the Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin and an excellent overlook of the Lower Old Town. There were choices of route between the upper and lower town area, steep hill, not so steep hill and bus. We chose the steep hill and were glad we were not going up. From the bottom of the hill we walked through the centre of town from east to west ending at the port rather easily.
Tallinn is a relatively small city with a very active port, and a blend of old and new buildings. There is a leisurely but constant flow of traffic on the streets and drivers of vehicles in the old town seem resigned to the fact of tourists and give way silently. The Lower Old Town surrounds a large town square lined with businesses catering to tourism. There were three cruise ships in port today but there was a constant follow of ferries arriving and departing all day. Traffic from the ferries seemed to dissipate rapidly suggesting the Tallinn was probably not their final destination.
Uploading photos remains difficult because of the slowness and response delays of the onboard internet services. I provide the links to where photos will ultimately be placed but they may not be in place until we are again on land.
Copenhagen by bus
Posted on July 24, 2013
Still slow Internet. This is from the street in Copenhagen.
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Copenhagen
Posted on July 30, 2013
This day, July 24, in Copenhagen delivered full value on the promised weather forecast. We took our berth at the Langelinievej port just to the north of the Oceania Marina and were able to disembark around 8 AM.
For the first time on this cruise the ship presented her port side to the dock. I wonder if this had anything to do with the fact that we have a new Captain at the helm. Actually, it seems more likely that this is the preferred position for an easy departure. However, Vincenzo Lubrano, the master from Southampton was replaced by Tony Yeomans while we were at anchor in Nynäshamn.
Gail and I wandered about Copenhagen using the HOHO bus. The city is similar to the other Scandinavian cities we have visited in that it is a blend of the old and the new. There are numerous architectural styles represented and there are statues everywhere. The most famous is undoubtedly that of the Little Mermaid. The statue is much smaller than its reputation and we are told that it has been damaged numerous times. Not surprising since it is right on the shore and has little protection from the sea or from vandals.
This is the home of Tivoli Gardens which may have been the source of Walt Disney’s concept of Disneyland. Given the limited time in port and our lack of interest in amusement parks in general, we did not spend time there. Instead, we walked along the pedestrian mall with the many other visitors that day. We found our obligatory collectables and continued. By the time the bus dropped us off near the Little Mermaid we could see the port and our ship so we walked the remainder of the way back passed the Oceania Marina and along the dock.
There should be a few photos in place now,
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St. Petersburg
Posted on July 24, 2013
We arrived on schedule in St. Petersburg but the Crown seemed to take forever to come alongside. The cruise terminal is relatively new, approximately there years old, and can accommodate as many as 12 ships so it seems clear that St. Petersburg would like to be in the cruise tourism business. There were two ships in port when we arrived, the Oceania Marina and the Royal Caribbean Brilliance of the Seas were on their second day in St. Petersburg. They departed in the evening and were replaced by two new ships the following morning.
We began convening for tours quite early and expected Russian immigration authorities to take a look at each of us and look they did. Not a word was spoken nor a smile returned. Migration cards we prepared earlier were examined, passports recorded, photograph compared, and again, finally the thump of a passport being stamped then another and another as the duplicate copies of the migration card were inked and filed. At last the passport was returned and each of us was dismissed. Perhaps they should consider revising their inspection routine if they wish to fill the port but there is such a mystique about St. Petersburg that visitors may come regardless of the greeting at the port.
Upon arriving at our motor coach we were welcomed cordially by our tour guide for the morning. Julia was a very pleasant young lady who spoke English extremely well and appeared to have an extensive knowledge of the area and its attractions. She narrated our hour long drive through the city to the Peterhof. I grabbed photos through the coach windows but it will take some time to caption them precisely.
We arrived to a rapidly filling parking lot. Bus after bus discharging 30 to 40 visitors each into the parking lot who then followed their guides onto the palace grounds and toward the entrance. The palace was guarded not by soldiers or police but by about half a dozen vendors of nesting dolls and other souvenirs. Money changed hands. Soon we filed inside and having left most of our possessions on the coach, only a few checked coats before donning surgical booties and switching our cameras off. Then we were efficiently counted through the turnstile into the first of several rooms we were to visit.
Onward we moved, each tour guide shepherding a group of tourists from room to room with a continual narration which we could hear through our earphones thanks to the modern miracle of wireless technology, radio to some. The gold room, the white room the Chinese rooms and so on. Ostentatious barely describes the display. Most of the original structure and content was damaged or destroyed by war so we were looking at recreations of the original.
The lower gardens of the Peterhof were extensive. Immediately below the palace was a cascading water feature leading to a canal which in turn emptied into the Gulf of Finland. The showy display of water fountains was activated at 11 AM so nearly every tour group returned to the fountain around that time. FIrst the music began then the fountains began to fill the pools until the water cascaded into the circular pond and then to the canal.
All the garden areas were manicured and the floral displays were changed frequently to maintain colour throughout the summer season. Trees lined the walkways which were frequently punctuated with statuary often associated with water features. There were a number of smaller buildings on the grounds some of which were dwellings others formerly served as stables and greenhouses.
Our tour group departed almost immediately after the 11 AM display. In the bus parking area a number of musicians played brass instruments featuring tunes from just about every country who could be expected to have tourists on the premises. While the area was packed with busses moving to the exit and tourists threading their way to coaches everything seemed to be organized chaos. Our coach delivered us back to the port where we were able to have a quick lunch before returning through Russian security to board a coach for the afternoon tour.
After several minutes driving through the streets of St. Petersburg our coach pulled up to a parking area near the ornate Church of Spilled Blood which also featured a tourist souvenir market, an old royal stable now being restored but not as a stable, and access to the canal where we were to board a boat for a few moments of water touring. It was quite apparent that the once extensive canal system had been truncated. There were bridges on the edge of main canals that led to nowhere and it was evident that what had once been a canal was now a roadway. We passed under several bridges that were high enough to allow our boat to pass and saw several other bridges we could never pass beneath.
The weather this day was fine. Even on the canal boat jackets were unnecessary and sunglasses were appropriate at times. More than could be said for day two which began with early morning rain and heavy overcast for most of the day. Afternoon rain became heavy at times in various places. Few tour groups got terribly wet or too cold but visibility was limited for most of the day.
Uploading photos remains difficult because of the slowness and response delays of the onboard internet services. I provide the links to where photos will ultimately be placed but they may not be in place until we are again on land.
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Helsinki
Posted on July 24, 2013
Helsinki, at approximately 60 N 25 E, appears to have been our most northerly port and we arrived to a cool, cloudy day. The port was not nearly so large as St. Petersburg but it was certainly more hospitable. Once again the passengers are cleared to go ashore on the ship’s certification so there are no grim faced inspectors.
After a quick stop at the shops where the essential souvenirs, hat pin, fridge magnet and spoon were acquired, we found two bus services competing for HOHO trade, There was little to choose between them I suppose so one was chosen and on we went. When Gary and I discovered how quick their free WIFI service was we were wishing we had brought computers along but such was not the case. The HOHO route followed two loops intersecting like a figure 8 but being a Sunday when much of Helsinki was closed we were on the bus more than off. We did walk the area around the Rock Church and from Senate Square to Market Square to the South Harbour.
While walking near Senate Square the aroma of cinnamon rolls had me (and others) salivating but the restaurant which was the source of the delightful smell was closed. We were told they had an outlet at the Market Square but one look at the extent of the market suggested that finding the right tent could be an all day project so no cinnamon roll.
A musician in Senate Square was accompanied by music from a strange music box contraption. His vocal stylings were pleasant enough but more representative of Italy than Helsinki. This was not a solo enterprise as the first singer was replaced by another as the morning progressed. There were other buskers in the square too.
We noticed that many city streets were made of brick and were not friendly for anyone in wheelchairs or walkers. The city was a mosaic of the old and the new with a rather attractive harbour area near the centre of town which, unfortunately, our ship did not use probably because of its large size. The busses accommodated by adding the port to their normal route.
For the past few evenings we have been treated to some latin show dances by a professional couple from Poland. Their first show was a magnificent rumba while their second was an absolutely spectacular samba. Both were performed on the mosaic tile floor of the ship’s atrium; not the best or easiest surface on which to dance. Alex and Natalia are quite young and have been performing together for only a year but clearly have potential to become world class latin dancers.
Uploading photos remains difficult because of the slowness and response delays of the onboard internet services. I provide the links to where photos will ultimately be placed but they may not be in place until we are again on land.
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Stockholm
Posted on July 24, 2013
The conditions in Sweden have been inhospitable to say the least. We abandoned Gothenburg earlier and yesterday as we were departing Helsinki we learned that Stockholm too would be bypassed as a port of call. In this instance, however, we shall still visit Sweden and Stockholm. As I write this segment we are entering the harbour at Nynäshamn where we will anchor for the day. We are apparently close enough to Stockholm that all tours will operate albeit with an extra three hours in travel. First we must tender ashore then abide extra travel time on the motor coach.
It is a beautifully sunny, 13 °C morning here in Nynäshamn harbour and the Crown Princess, as large as she is, shudders as the anchors are let out. Winds are at 25 kts and were the stated reason for avoiding Stockholm. As the Captain later told us, the passage into Stockholm is narrow and winds among the islands and Sweden’s marine regulations are quite strict. Given the forecasts for the area there was a concern that having made it into Stockholm’s harbour conditions might not allow the ship to leave.
As it turned out, Nynäshamn was a pleasant alternative. While it added some time to the bus ride it was through a rural area so we got to see the meadows and woods. Once in Stockholm a tour guide came aboard to narrate the remainder of the city tour. As with all tour narrations they are quite interesting but rarely memorable, at least in detail. The city has a history of royalty and palaces abound along with stories about royal history. The harbour in which we were scheduled to dock was indeed central to the city which consists of at least 14 islands.
Bridges and tunnels connect the islands each of which has its own story of development and current use. Traffic was moderately heavy and the streets were extremely convoluted. I am glad I didn’t have to drive in this city. With its many islands and irregular layout, Stockholm seemed like a very interesting city. We stopped at the Globen Centre which has a spherical arena as its centre piece. A feature of this building is a pair of scenic elevators that carry 14 passengers at a time up the exterior of the spherical structure right to its top. The 360 degree view of Stockholm is quite spectacular. The elevator cars are transparent spheres except for the floors and provide an ever expanding view of the city as the car climbs to the top.
Our coach returned to the Nynäshamn port with lots of time to get the few souvenirs, then it was back to the Crown Princess by tender and a rather late lunch. Once everyone had returned we learned that Jeff seemed to be suffering some cold symptoms so she took shelter in their stateroom. Later, after dinner, some little man with a hammer began pounding on my sinuses so I think everyone packed up and went home early this day.
Tonight Alex and Natalia performed a tango for the audience. Their choreography linked stylized International Latin figures and some solo work with some very sensual Argentine Tango.
Uploading photos remains difficult because of the slowness and response delays of the onboard internet services. I provide the links to where photos will ultimately be placed but they may not be in place until we are again on land.
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Bruges
Posted on July 30, 2013
We entered the port of Zeebrugge on July 26 for our visit to Bruges. The weather was warm but with some rain which had dissipated by the time we left the ship for our planned tour. We boarded the motor coach and met our tour host and guide Bert or Gilbert, as he introduced himself. His travelogue was continuous as the coach traveled from the port to the old city and of course I remember every word. The piece that sticks in my mind and I think is relevant to what we saw was the fact that Bruges was left essentially untouched by WW 2. It seems that its complete lack of manufacturing facilities made it unimportant as a bomb target and there was very little damage from occupation or subsequent retreat of forces.
The result was a city with a very wide range of architectures most of which is now protected as a world historic site. When we left the coach a second tour guide joined us and we formed two groups of about 20 each for the walk through the city. It will take a lot of time to actually title the photos accurately as our guide took us through the streets and squares according to his timetable. Our mid-tour destination was the Chocolate Museum. Who knew there was such a place. It was interesting to learn how filled chocolates were made and why Belgian Chocolate is superior but the best was the tasting. Predictably, the exit from the museum was by way of their gift shop, shelves filled with yummy looking chocolate products, some combining chocolate with seemingly unlikely companions like peppers.
Bruges is a city constructed around an earlier city. Buildings on borders between very old and not so old districts can have a different appearance on each face depending upon cultural influences in each district. The older parts also made use of canals, a practice that was not continued into newer sections.
Our group stopped in a city square that offered shopping. There were chocolate shops everywhere and the expected souvenir sellers. Ah yes, Belgian Waffles, with strawberries and chocolate, you expected something else? Here we met the other half of our group and several other tour groups convened at this location for rest before returning to the motor coach. As we came near the end of the tour we found ourselves walking though gardens along a river bank. It was nice visually and provided cool shade, welcome at this time since the sun had made things quite warm. More historical notes from the guide helped us keep awake on the return ride.
A few Photos.
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